Venezuela

Chaio Peter

Rio Caura, day 8 – The girl and the MSN address

Chaio bella

After seven days she spoke to me. In Spanish when the man was changing the wheel of the jeep. She liked the music on my iPod. I understood that. But then she said a lot of things in Spanish, and I was lost. All we could do was smile and make gestures. I thought of a Cuban girl last year. But this was innocent, though the girl had smiled all week. Now she had transformed herself from boy-girly teen to beautiful… woman? Well, she was 16. Her counting fingers showed me. Then she asked for my MSN address. And when I left the family she waved. And said Chaio Peter 🙂

Wheel problem #3 Wheel problem #1 Chaio Shaky backseat party

Salto Pará Waterfall

Río Caura, day 6

Salto Pará and family

I don’t have much to say. Waterfalls are impressive with the enormous nature powers thundering down. We hiked a few hours to get there, and when we arrived it was like stepping into a postcard. I got these associations to the colorful, nature kitsch pictures you find in the Middle East. You know, – the lightning motion pictures with waterfalls and bird sounds;

The real action was on the way back when it suddenly started to rain. Not just a little, but pouring rainforest rain, that made every path into a flood. We were immediately soaked, and more than once my feet tripped on the slippery mountain rocks. Guide Gregorious cut down giant leafs for us and we walked under them the rest of the way back to El Playón. I loved it :-)!!!!

Jungle rain #1 Jungle rain #3 Jungle rain #2

Blogging is hard

Posada Don Carlos  

I want you to get a feeling of my world, but the posts from Río Caura have become more like articles than actual blog entries. That might be okay if I was writing for a newspaper, but it is not the best way of communicating experiences on the internet, and I would really like to express myself more straightforward. I have a way of editing until everything it gets all nice and polished, – without real edge and personality.

I am sure it would work better, if I was able to say “Okay, so what’s on my mind??!” Write now! Or record! Or slam a poem! Or Twitter! But it is difficult when the editor inside me always wants to cut and adjust.

So now I am sitting here in my Posada Don Carlos window writing this, and wondering what to do. If you have suggestions on how I can show you immediate, unpolished impressions of the world please let me know. What do you want to see and feel? My wet socks hanging outside in the sun? My morning bread on the plate? Hmm… 

Hugo Chávez frustrations

Río Caura, day 5 – the beach

We have finally arrived at the vast sandbanks of destination El Playón where this part of our river journey ends. Small wooden houses are spread on the beach, and with the evening sun sending a paradise glow down upon everything, it is hard not to feel amazed.

El Playón Hammock view #3 El Playón boat El Playón motor

After dinner Caracas man Francisco pops an expensive French red wine and offers me a glass in the dark overlooking the water. His wife is asleep in a hammock nearby. “Mmmm, this is really camping”, he says.

Dictator socialism

Francisco expresses his pride in the fact, that educated European students like me wants to come to Venezuela regardless of the political situation. He is openly frustrated by the socialist leadership of President Hugo Chávez.

– It has been 10 years now and it’s not getting any better. Chávez wants to do to Venezuela what Fidel Casto did to Cuba, and all though we should be a democracy here, that man is running the country like a dictator.

Belonging to wealthy class of Venezuelans, Francisco admits that Cháves missions have helped some poor people, but he doesn’t think he is building any foundation for the future, though he has had every opportunity with all the oil money floating in the country. And this frustrates him.

– I am a socialist too, you know. Just not this way.

Ahm… Where is Río Caura?

Just to let you know where we are: Rio Caura is located in the south eastern half of Venezuela in the region Guayana – famous for its natural beauty and homeland of the majority Venezuela’s native Indian population. Among the wonders here are the world’s highest waterfall (Angel Falls, 1 km), the wide open fields of Gran Sabana and the huge numbers of rivers and channels crisscrossing the jungle.

Río Caura is a larger river coming from the main Río Orinoco. Much less visited than tourist magnet destination Angel Falls, but including the same jungle setting with a spectacular verity of wildlife.

THERE IS A MAP OF RÍO CAURA HERE – also showing some other peoples photos from the place.

Yamaha breakdown. Military rescue.

Río Caura, day 5

Yesterdays I felt that everything was just a little to calculated. As if I had been casted to play tourist in an act with stunning background settings and a manuscript telling me exactly when to say WAAAU and WOOOU.

Today all that is forgotten, and shortly after leaviing our night camp, the Yamaha motor on the boat sets out. That was definitely not in the script! The engine is dead and it will not wake up.

Luckily, four young soldiers from the Venezuelan National Guard wrrrroms by in small military canoe. They are fully dressed for war, but easily talked into escorting us (the Venezuelan couple, myself and our guide) the rest of the way up river to our final destination. A two/three hours ride.

So there we are. In the bottom of a canoe looking into the back of the soldier in front of me, who – by the way – has thrown his machine gun in the water under his seat just next to my feet and an orange lifejacket.

It seems we’re back on the unpredictable and authentic journey track :)!

Military escort #3 Military escort #4 Military escort #2 Military escort #1

What ARE you doing down there???

Río Caura, day 4 – moving up the river

You know the feeling of being placed in a situation and suddenly thinking you don’t belong there? That feeling gets to me on occations – sometimes when I am at a lecture in school or eating dinner with old friends, but most often it occurs in places where I feel uncomfortable. Like… late night at a party, where everyone else seems to know everyone except me. 

Then my mind somehow zooms out and I look at the situation from outside while a loud voice insistently screams… “WHAT THE F… ARE YOU DOING DOWN THERE?”

I had this feeling today.

It is not because it hasn’t been amazing. Finally we were setting off on Río Caura, the sun had almost entirely burned away the morning clouds and the wide river looked impressive surrounded by the thick rainforest. I was sitting there in the boat – smiling – with Jonás family members just behind me.

Peter on Río Caura 

To my left I had the English speaking guide Gregorious, who from time to time pointed to huge turtles climbing on a rock or sea lions sticking their head up from underneath the water. I front of me was my two tourist companions; a middle aged, upper class couple from Caracas – the capital of Venezuela.

They were actually who triggered my “not belonging here” –feeling.

The first time in a situation where I looked at the Venezuelan couple sitting in their comfortable camping chairs (brought from Caracas to the canoe), with their hands in a pack of salted chips provided by our family hosts behind. “ARRRGH… WHAT IS THIS?” And I saw myself eating of the chips too.

The second situation occurred in one of the riverside Indian villages we visited along the way. The couple were taking pictures and I (with my very white skin) felt more and more like the tourist I am; Inappropriately placed in the middle of strange looking locals speaking an ancient native language and walking around almost undressed. 

 “And it’s amazing some people actually live like this, right”, Caracas man Francisco said to me and looked back at the village children continuing in a dreamy voice; “Simply unbelievable”

The Caracas couple Picture with the locals Indian village girls  

So… you are married?

The boy next door

Río Caura, day 3

Another relaxing waiting day strolling around the río village Las Trincheras waiting for the departure. Met the nice Venezuelan guy on the picture, who knew some english. I don’t remember his name, but I remember that he was 24 years old. Happily married. And the father of two 3year-old children. Hmmm.

The 70year-old DDR socialist

Río Caura, Day 2 (sorry the post got long and badly illustrated, but this man was really interesting :-))

After a relaxing hammock Sunday, a white car suddenly rolls into my family campsite in Las Trinchares. A man steps out. Though he is old, he looks vital and happy wearing a Hawaiian shirt and holding a big folded map in one hand. Klaus is his name. And he is traveling around Venezuela in a rented car.

– I turn 70 in a few days, and I really didn’t want to be the centre of some big party setup back home. So I decided to come here. I have travelled most of the world, actually. It’s my only hobby.

These words are all said in German, of cause – the only language Klaus knows beside Russian. Though it has been years since I learned German in school, I understand – at least better than anyone else here.

Klaus finds a bed in the nearby guesthouse, and invites me over for late night rum on his balcony with an amazing view overlooking the river. Here we small talk about everything. Studies. Woman. Politics.

Playing by the rules of socialism

As the conversation develop, it turns out Klaus is a burning socialist who share the visions of Fidel Castro and Hugo Chavez, and looks back at the past times in the former DDR with great joy.

– We played by the rules of socialism and people had a direction in life. You need that. You cannot figure out everything by yourself, and from my perspective socialism leads you the right direction. Taking care of one another and sharing your life and experiences.

Sympathic ideas on a beautiful evening by the river. I tell him that Christianity to me provides that framework and he respects that, all though he is clearly an atheist. When the conversation turns to world issues regarding terrorism and Islam, and his statements are less appealing to me.

– Muslims have flooded Europe and that it is only a matter of time before towns or even nations are taken over by these violent and fanatic people.

A black and white world

The more we speak (…or drink?), the more the old DDR man seem to objectify and simplify people and cultures. Everything turns black or white in his head, in a way that to me has nothing to do with socialism, though it might be a sign of his DDR past. It is also strongly reflected in his male chauvinistic views on prostitutes and women in general. A discussion that is better not to refer here.

Klaus from DDR had strong and unappealing opinions, but a winning personality. When I wanted to leave but couldn’t find my way back in the dark, the former marine officer shook his head as he followed me along to the camp:

– [sighing] Peter aus Dänemark, der einmal stolzen Nation des Wikings, kann nicht zurück zu seiner Hängematte finden.

And so we left each other laughing into the Venezuelan night.

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