Río Caura

Ahm… Where is Río Caura?

Just to let you know where we are: Rio Caura is located in the south eastern half of Venezuela in the region Guayana – famous for its natural beauty and homeland of the majority Venezuela’s native Indian population. Among the wonders here are the world’s highest waterfall (Angel Falls, 1 km), the wide open fields of Gran Sabana and the huge numbers of rivers and channels crisscrossing the jungle.

Río Caura is a larger river coming from the main Río Orinoco. Much less visited than tourist magnet destination Angel Falls, but including the same jungle setting with a spectacular verity of wildlife.

THERE IS A MAP OF RÍO CAURA HERE – also showing some other peoples photos from the place.

What ARE you doing down there???

Río Caura, day 4 – moving up the river

You know the feeling of being placed in a situation and suddenly thinking you don’t belong there? That feeling gets to me on occations – sometimes when I am at a lecture in school or eating dinner with old friends, but most often it occurs in places where I feel uncomfortable. Like… late night at a party, where everyone else seems to know everyone except me. 

Then my mind somehow zooms out and I look at the situation from outside while a loud voice insistently screams… “WHAT THE F… ARE YOU DOING DOWN THERE?”

I had this feeling today.

It is not because it hasn’t been amazing. Finally we were setting off on Río Caura, the sun had almost entirely burned away the morning clouds and the wide river looked impressive surrounded by the thick rainforest. I was sitting there in the boat – smiling – with Jonás family members just behind me.

Peter on Río Caura 

To my left I had the English speaking guide Gregorious, who from time to time pointed to huge turtles climbing on a rock or sea lions sticking their head up from underneath the water. I front of me was my two tourist companions; a middle aged, upper class couple from Caracas – the capital of Venezuela.

They were actually who triggered my “not belonging here” –feeling.

The first time in a situation where I looked at the Venezuelan couple sitting in their comfortable camping chairs (brought from Caracas to the canoe), with their hands in a pack of salted chips provided by our family hosts behind. “ARRRGH… WHAT IS THIS?” And I saw myself eating of the chips too.

The second situation occurred in one of the riverside Indian villages we visited along the way. The couple were taking pictures and I (with my very white skin) felt more and more like the tourist I am; Inappropriately placed in the middle of strange looking locals speaking an ancient native language and walking around almost undressed. 

 “And it’s amazing some people actually live like this, right”, Caracas man Francisco said to me and looked back at the village children continuing in a dreamy voice; “Simply unbelievable”

The Caracas couple Picture with the locals Indian village girls  

So… you are married?

The boy next door

Río Caura, day 3

Another relaxing waiting day strolling around the río village Las Trincheras waiting for the departure. Met the nice Venezuelan guy on the picture, who knew some english. I don’t remember his name, but I remember that he was 24 years old. Happily married. And the father of two 3year-old children. Hmmm.

The 70year-old DDR socialist

Río Caura, Day 2 (sorry the post got long and badly illustrated, but this man was really interesting :-))

After a relaxing hammock Sunday, a white car suddenly rolls into my family campsite in Las Trinchares. A man steps out. Though he is old, he looks vital and happy wearing a Hawaiian shirt and holding a big folded map in one hand. Klaus is his name. And he is traveling around Venezuela in a rented car.

– I turn 70 in a few days, and I really didn’t want to be the centre of some big party setup back home. So I decided to come here. I have travelled most of the world, actually. It’s my only hobby.

These words are all said in German, of cause – the only language Klaus knows beside Russian. Though it has been years since I learned German in school, I understand – at least better than anyone else here.

Klaus finds a bed in the nearby guesthouse, and invites me over for late night rum on his balcony with an amazing view overlooking the river. Here we small talk about everything. Studies. Woman. Politics.

Playing by the rules of socialism

As the conversation develop, it turns out Klaus is a burning socialist who share the visions of Fidel Castro and Hugo Chavez, and looks back at the past times in the former DDR with great joy.

– We played by the rules of socialism and people had a direction in life. You need that. You cannot figure out everything by yourself, and from my perspective socialism leads you the right direction. Taking care of one another and sharing your life and experiences.

Sympathic ideas on a beautiful evening by the river. I tell him that Christianity to me provides that framework and he respects that, all though he is clearly an atheist. When the conversation turns to world issues regarding terrorism and Islam, and his statements are less appealing to me.

– Muslims have flooded Europe and that it is only a matter of time before towns or even nations are taken over by these violent and fanatic people.

A black and white world

The more we speak (…or drink?), the more the old DDR man seem to objectify and simplify people and cultures. Everything turns black or white in his head, in a way that to me has nothing to do with socialism, though it might be a sign of his DDR past. It is also strongly reflected in his male chauvinistic views on prostitutes and women in general. A discussion that is better not to refer here.

Klaus from DDR had strong and unappealing opinions, but a winning personality. When I wanted to leave but couldn’t find my way back in the dark, the former marine officer shook his head as he followed me along to the camp:

– [sighing] Peter aus Dänemark, der einmal stolzen Nation des Wikings, kann nicht zurück zu seiner Hängematte finden.

And so we left each other laughing into the Venezuelan night.

Río TXT pictures

Río Caura, day 2 – short boat journey

PIX 1: I am placed in the middle of a 15 meter long wooden canoe. In front of me a teenage boy has just taken off his shirt and is now lying down in the bottom of the boat looking up into the partly clouded sky. Behind me is his older brother steering the huge Yamaha motor. The wind is blowing in my hair.

PIX 2: Soft red rocks appear over the water line. Some of them create small islands grown with strange crocked trees. The canoe moves steadily and fast.

PIX 3: I am sitting on a towel. The canoe is tied to a rock left of me and the boys are not there. I am wet after swimming and I smell of strawberry shampoo from Trinidad. The sun is glowing.

Jonás family jeep experience

Stop Gas station Shaky backseat party Evening in Las Trinchares

Río Caura, day 1

Jonás Camejo is a pioneer in Venezuelan tourism. For more than 15 years he has arranged tours in the Caura Region specializing in boat journeys on the jungle river Río Caura. Jonás is also the proud father of 12 beautiful children, and he has two wives (!) living in different parts of Ciudad Bolívar.
I am going to Río Caura with “Jonas Tours” which means that I am now a part of his family. At least for the next days, where I follow them around 24/7.

The journey begins on the backseat of a tightly packed jeep. My rucksack has been thrown on the roof and I am introduced to a large group of family members. Jonás is in the front seat with one of his wives and the oldest of his girls. I am in the backseat room with a grandfather, a brother, a son, two teenage girls and piles of food and luggage. Oh. And two wicked 4 or 5year-old boys are crawling on top of it all, tickling each other and smiling naughty to everyone

Intense backseat slumbering

Everything is very hot and intense, and it is a little awkward to be this close to someone without really being able to communicate. Jonás knows a few sentences in German, but it is limited to things like “ist alles gut?” and the older backseat boys just speak very little English. So mostly I just sit there. Smiling. Slumbering. And looking at the weirdly pang-colored teenage girl sitting opposite myself dressed in a blue basket shirt without sleeves, trashy red pants, white plastic sunglasses and a reverse pointing cap. She quietly sings along to the Venezuelan music in her earplugs and looks cool in a strange boy-girly kind of way.

Stop

The bumpy ride last about five hours – including a number of beer stops in villages along the way. The local brews are ice cold Corona-like pilsners. People here apparently love beer. Only the family men drink, of course, but I am one of them now and the beers are included in the trip equal to food and other essentials. After 250 kilometers (the last hours on slow forest path) we arrive in “Las Trincheras” – a small village with around 100 people. The Jonás family owns a house here just by Río Caura. The girls cook a delicious and traditional rice/chicken dinner before I fall asleep in my hammock overlooking the water and surrounded by amazing rainforest sounds.

To be continued 🙂 // Peter

Capturing beauty with a mobile phone…

HOLA! I am back online from Ciudad Bolivar where I just returned from my river/jungle week at Río Caura. Now… I want to give you give you a feeling of everything, but how…? I tried to shoot some photos with my mobile phone now my camera has been stolen. It is really unfair to the breathtaking scenery, but anyway… They are now on flick with a few comments.

Below is a fact-overview of what happened during the past week. The true stories will follow soon as they are made understandable from the notes of my Moleskin…

Río Caura… So what happened?

Stop Day 1. Departure from Ciudad Bolívar
Five hour family experience on the backseats of an old jeep/van. In the afternoon we arrive in the small village Las Trinchares by Río Caura.

Evening in Las Trinchares Day 2. Relaxing hammock Sunday
Including an afternoon boat trip to a nearby island. In the evening an old East German man Klaus comes by. We talk and drink late night rum by the river.

The boy next door Day 3. Thought we were leaving today
Apparently we are not. I talk to the neighbor boy – a 24 year old family father – and Gregorious (my guide) arrives late in the evening with the Venezuelan Caracas couple that will join us on the trip. Tomorrow.

Peter on Río Caura Day 4. Sailing up the Río Caura
We visit several native Indian villages along the way and ends in a deserted forest spot where we camp in our hammocks.

El Playón Day 5. Arriving at El Playón
Our engine breaks and we are escorted by a passing military canoe. We finally arrive at El Playón. Swimming and late night red wine with Francisco.

Evening fishing #2 Day 6. Hike to Salto Pará waterfalls
Fishing in the sunset with the family’s boys and men.

Chaio bella Day 7+8. Full day boat journey
To our starting point in Las Trinchares. The next morning we drive back Ciudad Bolívar. The wheel on the jeep deflated (?) and the girl asks if she could have my MSN address.


All photos are now on Flickr. The stories will be in the following blog posts 🙂

Scroll to Top