Tobago

Little Tobago Bird Island

Yesterday morning I left a sleepy Charlotteville village with one of the few busses heading out of town on a Sunday. After just 15 minutes I arrived on the opposite coast in what should be the ultimate place of divers and bird lovers. Not that I would know, but I am willing to learn 🙂

Just after arriving, a friendly fisherman offered me a ride to “Little Tobago” – the bird island. I had checked prices and ways in my guidebook, and his offer sounded fair. So after checking into a guesthouse and buying some food and water (there is nothing to get at the small island), I was sailed there in a small blue boat by Roy the fisherman in underpants and a warn-out “I LOVE NY” t-shirt. His friends call him Fatboy, I was told later that evening. And Roy would come back and get me four hours later.

Little Tobago is a beautiful place, and it was nice walking along the small paths hearing sounds and watching birds everywhere. I tried to catch a few of them on the small video spiced up with some “Tony Allen” background music :-). Don’t worry if you can’t hear my voice. I don’t say anything interesting. 

 

After crisscrossing the island, I took a swim by a reef there. Roy had provided me with some snorkeling equipment, and though it was difficult because I had forgotten my contact lenses, it was an amazing experience to get a glimpse of the world down under. With thousands of small colorful fish following each other and some big blue ones going against the crowd. On the way back, Roy stopped by “Goats Island” (an even smaller island) where I jumped in and had a look down at the enormous reef. Waaau.  

I definitely need to do some more snorkeling or diving some day.

And just to finish up on the day, I ended it outside a bar by the sea where I had a cold beer talking to the extremely friendly locals here. A am continually amazed by the relaxed atmosphere and how much you need to slow down in order to enjoy it fully. An old man on the street actually said to me: “Hey man. You look busy” commenting smilingly on my (apparently) quite focused walk to a restaurant. “You should relax, man. You are in Paradise:-)!”

Keep Tobago clean Sprayside coast Going to Little Lobago Roy the fisherman   

Drawing secrets in the sand

I am writing these lines in the shadow of a palm tree on “Pirates Bay” – a five minutes’ walk from Charlotteville (YES, Morten – it was an amazing view!!!). And the beach was a beautiful little place with yellow sand and emerald green water. Though I am not much of a beach boy, it has been nice just spending the day here in the sun, reading, swimming, looking at bikini girls etc.

At least the first hours until I started getting bored…

Then I started asking myself questions like; what I am really doing here when everything important happens at home! What do I hope to figure out along the way? Do I have a goal? Should I change things when I return to my life in Denmark?

No answers yet. Because after a few minutes I rediscovered the beauty of drawing things in the sand. Yeer!!! You know, clearing a spot with your hands and using your fingers to curve your thoughts. Depending on how far down you go, the surface will get wetter and harder, and I have actually found that I dare to write things here that wouldn’t go in my Moleskin, simply because I know that with stroke of my hand, – all the secrets would be gone. Highly recommendable!!

Secrets in the sand 

The small fishing village

Tonight I arrived in the “absurdly pretty fishing town of Charlotteville” (quotation stolen from guidebook). This place in the very north of Tobago is the village where most of the islands fish is taken in, and the action is concentrated around a 2 kilometer-wide bay with boats and nets and waves. You could almost think you were somewhere along the Danish West Coast by the scenery, but people here look different and tend to speak much more.

Charlotteville Love boat Charlotteville Charlotteville

Like… when I took a walk this evening. A woman looked at me when I passed her shop window saying “Hey boy… You look great”. ThanksJ. You don’t see that happen often in “Hvide Sande”.

All though there are more tourists here than in Trinidad (where I met close to zero) the atmosphere is still quiet and nice, and you don’t get attacked by people wanting to sell things. I only met this one guy, but he was kind of nice; A young musician wanting me to buy his music.

And he played for me with his guitar and I sat down listening to his happy-reggae-tunes and watching his huge smile underneath his long, dark hair. I explained that I couldn’t really carry a CD for the next two months and that was okay. Instead we bought a beer and he offered me a piece of newly cached tuna fish straight off the grill behind the building, where his friends were gathered. Mmmmmm…

Tobago update

Hej alle. Bare hurtig opdatering fra en lille internetcafé Tobago, hvor jeg landede med færgen fra Port of Spain i går aftes. Om lidt er jeg på vej videre nordpå – formentligt sammen med et par andre danskere backpackere, som jeg mødte på det (meget faldefærdige, meget billige) guesthouse hvor jeg overnattede. Dårlig, dårlig skummadras i øvrigt.

Jacob's Guesthouse

Mit kamera opfører sig mærkeligt efter mit vanduheld i regnskoven, men det formåede alligevel at tage træ-billedet nedenfor i formiddags hvor jeg klatrede op til “Ford King George” og lå i skyggen foran fortet mens jeg læste i Jens Blendstrups lille fantastiske bog “Gud taler ud” og spiste morgenmad – blandt andet en ubehagelig carribisk udgave af Cheerios, som jeg ikke køber igen…

Tree

Next stop: Trinidad and Tobago

The people have spoken. I need to continue my journey in South America !!! I have been given many great suggestions of where excatly I should go. Gorm pointed in the direction of Venezuela and that sounded right.

So now I have booked my next flight ticket. I will go to Trinidad and Tobago – the southern Carribian Islands just outside of Venezuela (see on map). I saw some beach pictures and the ticket there was cheap, so I thought… Aaaaaahhh… Yes! 

I will find a way getting to Venezuela just after the islands. But what to do? I need all the help and suggestions I can get. I plan to go and buy a Lonely Planet or something, but if you can guide me in any way, I will be gratefull.

Take care 🙂 // Peter

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