Velkommen til Venezuela

Jeg er lige ankommet med færgen og står udenfor i skyggen og snakker med et ungt engelsk/tysk kærestepar, der har mødt hinanden som studerende på universitet i Trinidad. De er på vej til Mérida i Andesbjergene ovre vestpå. Hyggelige mennesker.

Vi er nogle af de sidste passagerer der stadig står ved båden, og et par taxachauffører er ivrige efter at høre hvor vi vil hen. Men vi venter på en amerikansk sømand, som vi mødte på færgen. Han kender Venezuela særdeles godt – han har sejlet Caribien rundt de sidste mange år og sat skibe i stand og lige nu skal han videre til Puerto La Cruz, hvor han har et skib liggende. Så vi regner med at hægte os på ham. Puerto La Cruz er transportcentrum fra den caribiske nordkyst og videre til hele landet.

På færgen advarede han os om Venezuela

– This is really a shitty place. People here will pull a gun at you wherever you go, and all you can do is give them the money and beg for them not to kill you. You can’t feel safe anywhere. Columbia is all different and you can walk in the streets at night with no problems at all.

Meget dramatisk og amerikansk, tænker jeg. Han er i det hele taget lidt irriterende og mange andre har fortalt mig at kriminaliteten i Venezuela er opreklameret. Når bare man tænker sig om.

Sømanden er kommet ud. Han havde problemer med indrejsetilladelsen da han ikke kunne forklare præcist hvornår han sejler videre (“it depends on the hurricanes and everything”) men pludselig var det i orden. Vi forhører os om taxapriserne, men beslutter at vi godt kan gå de 10 minutter ind til centrum. Taxaen var dyr og det er midt på dagen, så der skulle ikke være problemer.

Don’t shoot

Halvvejs oppe af vejen kommer 3 drenge kommer løbende mod os fra buskadset. 16-17år. Den ene lader en pistol (ritz/ritz) og peger den mod os. Jeg kan huske jeg lige når at tænke, at de må lave sjov. Sådan en slags street theater måske, for det virker ikke særligt farligt og vi går jo bare her stille og roligt med vores rygsække i solskinnet. Men så bliver pistolen peget hen på sømanden der råber “don’t shoot”. Og en af de andre kommer hen til mig og råber “moneno” og mærker mine lommer. Jeg når ikke at reagere inden han finder mit kamera. Og så løber de tilbage i træerne ligeså hurtigt som de var kommet.

Lidt rystede beslutter vi os for at tage en taxa.

Den sætter mig af ved politistationen for at få røveriet anmeldt (mit kamera var det eneste de tog). De andre går med ind, men det ligner noget der kan tage lang tid, så vi beslutter at de kan tage videre og tjekke hvornår busserne går til Puerto La Cruz. Jeg giver dem mit telefonnummer så de kan sende en besked hvis de finder ud af noget, – ellers finder jeg selv et hotel og tager af sted i morgen.

Rapport fra en socialistisk politistation følger senere. Har det i øvrigt godt og passer på mig selv. Har tjekket ind på et hotel i centrum og folk på gaden herinde er meget venlige og smilende, selvom ingen kan engelsk og jeg absolut ikke kan spansk. Jeg i øvrigt har fundet mit mavebælte frem til pas og papirer og pakket computeren ekstra godt væk. 🙂

On my way to Venezuela

7 in the morning by the sea in Chaguaramas outside Port of Spain. Wednesday. The ferry to Venezuela leaves from here at 9 and I finally have the ticket in my hands. Yesterday I was here trying to buy it, the lady wouldn’t sell it unless I could present a ticket going out of Venezuela. No one way!

But… But… I had not decided that yet… Back in Port of Spain I got to the Internet, checked prices and decided to buy a ticket to Miami in 2½ week. Don’t know if I will travel more in the US – maybe – but it’s also the cheapest way to get to Europe or the Middle East. Whish will probably be next.

Anyway. The ticket-lady is happy now. I have checked in my luggage (along with maybe 20 other passengers (small boat) and shortly wee will take off.

Venezuela Ticket

Little Tobago Bird Island

Yesterday morning I left a sleepy Charlotteville village with one of the few busses heading out of town on a Sunday. After just 15 minutes I arrived on the opposite coast in what should be the ultimate place of divers and bird lovers. Not that I would know, but I am willing to learn 🙂

Just after arriving, a friendly fisherman offered me a ride to “Little Tobago” – the bird island. I had checked prices and ways in my guidebook, and his offer sounded fair. So after checking into a guesthouse and buying some food and water (there is nothing to get at the small island), I was sailed there in a small blue boat by Roy the fisherman in underpants and a warn-out “I LOVE NY” t-shirt. His friends call him Fatboy, I was told later that evening. And Roy would come back and get me four hours later.

Little Tobago is a beautiful place, and it was nice walking along the small paths hearing sounds and watching birds everywhere. I tried to catch a few of them on the small video spiced up with some “Tony Allen” background music :-). Don’t worry if you can’t hear my voice. I don’t say anything interesting. 

 

After crisscrossing the island, I took a swim by a reef there. Roy had provided me with some snorkeling equipment, and though it was difficult because I had forgotten my contact lenses, it was an amazing experience to get a glimpse of the world down under. With thousands of small colorful fish following each other and some big blue ones going against the crowd. On the way back, Roy stopped by “Goats Island” (an even smaller island) where I jumped in and had a look down at the enormous reef. Waaau.  

I definitely need to do some more snorkeling or diving some day.

And just to finish up on the day, I ended it outside a bar by the sea where I had a cold beer talking to the extremely friendly locals here. A am continually amazed by the relaxed atmosphere and how much you need to slow down in order to enjoy it fully. An old man on the street actually said to me: “Hey man. You look busy” commenting smilingly on my (apparently) quite focused walk to a restaurant. “You should relax, man. You are in Paradise:-)!”

Keep Tobago clean Sprayside coast Going to Little Lobago Roy the fisherman   

June’s war

June is an old lady who has been living here with her dogs for the past 12 years. Born in London. Married in Canada. And now retired and alone in Paradise. We had lunch by the same table yesterday (Friday Roti at Lyda’s) chatting seriously about the state of the world.

June was a child in London during the 2nd world war.
– I remember one day riding my bike alone in the street and suddenly I saw this airplane coming down right above my head. Goodness Gracious. And it was flying really low and I could see the swastika, and then the pilot stuck his head out of the window looking down at me. I was the only one in the street.

June tells me she could follow how the plane flew further down the road and dropping its bombs in an old building. Ammunition or gun storrage, she thinks it was.

– England was not even really at war, but it was horrible and it felt like it would last forever. And then just think about the children who are right now growing up in the places where they have been living in war for decades.

I told her about my experiences in Palestine and how freedom there is limited in so many ways that life is made almost impossible. They have been under occupation for 60 years now.

– Yes, it’s horrible isn’t it?! You would thing people had learned.

Tobagonian slow life

Saturday in Charlotteville and I am enjoying the lazy morning silence. My days on these paradise islands will soon end, and so I figured it would be better to spent more time in fewer places. Morten Villadsen convinced me to stay here a few more days and I found an amazingly friendly Guesthouse just a few meters away from the sea, where I now have a room downstairs. Next door to the sons of my host Elizabeth. Amazing place. I could get used to this 🙂

Elizabeth's 

My view at Elizabeth's 

By the way; I have passed Sonson’s boat and Jungle’s shop but not personally met any of Morten’s beachfriends yet. Tomorrow I will move on from Charlotteville – probably to Sprayside and Little Tobago. And I hope to get onboard a ferry from Trinidad to Venezuela this Wednesday. They depart only once a week.

Drawing secrets in the sand

I am writing these lines in the shadow of a palm tree on “Pirates Bay” – a five minutes’ walk from Charlotteville (YES, Morten – it was an amazing view!!!). And the beach was a beautiful little place with yellow sand and emerald green water. Though I am not much of a beach boy, it has been nice just spending the day here in the sun, reading, swimming, looking at bikini girls etc.

At least the first hours until I started getting bored…

Then I started asking myself questions like; what I am really doing here when everything important happens at home! What do I hope to figure out along the way? Do I have a goal? Should I change things when I return to my life in Denmark?

No answers yet. Because after a few minutes I rediscovered the beauty of drawing things in the sand. Yeer!!! You know, clearing a spot with your hands and using your fingers to curve your thoughts. Depending on how far down you go, the surface will get wetter and harder, and I have actually found that I dare to write things here that wouldn’t go in my Moleskin, simply because I know that with stroke of my hand, – all the secrets would be gone. Highly recommendable!!

Secrets in the sand 

The small fishing village

Tonight I arrived in the “absurdly pretty fishing town of Charlotteville” (quotation stolen from guidebook). This place in the very north of Tobago is the village where most of the islands fish is taken in, and the action is concentrated around a 2 kilometer-wide bay with boats and nets and waves. You could almost think you were somewhere along the Danish West Coast by the scenery, but people here look different and tend to speak much more.

Charlotteville Love boat Charlotteville Charlotteville

Like… when I took a walk this evening. A woman looked at me when I passed her shop window saying “Hey boy… You look great”. ThanksJ. You don’t see that happen often in “Hvide Sande”.

All though there are more tourists here than in Trinidad (where I met close to zero) the atmosphere is still quiet and nice, and you don’t get attacked by people wanting to sell things. I only met this one guy, but he was kind of nice; A young musician wanting me to buy his music.

And he played for me with his guitar and I sat down listening to his happy-reggae-tunes and watching his huge smile underneath his long, dark hair. I explained that I couldn’t really carry a CD for the next two months and that was okay. Instead we bought a beer and he offered me a piece of newly cached tuna fish straight off the grill behind the building, where his friends were gathered. Mmmmmm…

Tobago update

Hej alle. Bare hurtig opdatering fra en lille internetcafé Tobago, hvor jeg landede med færgen fra Port of Spain i går aftes. Om lidt er jeg på vej videre nordpå – formentligt sammen med et par andre danskere backpackere, som jeg mødte på det (meget faldefærdige, meget billige) guesthouse hvor jeg overnattede. Dårlig, dårlig skummadras i øvrigt.

Jacob's Guesthouse

Mit kamera opfører sig mærkeligt efter mit vanduheld i regnskoven, men det formåede alligevel at tage træ-billedet nedenfor i formiddags hvor jeg klatrede op til “Ford King George” og lå i skyggen foran fortet mens jeg læste i Jens Blendstrups lille fantastiske bog “Gud taler ud” og spiste morgenmad – blandt andet en ubehagelig carribisk udgave af Cheerios, som jeg ikke køber igen…

Tree

Paradise #2: Notes

Arriving at my guesthouse just by the sea // Walking the street beeing greeted by everyone // Swimming in mountain pool with waterfalls // Having breakfast with former US jazz drummer Horace // Being lost in the forest and suddenly meeting an old man who knows the way // Receiving a sweet SMS from Denmark // Discovering new sounds // Finally stepping down on the hot beach sand // Eating coconut soup at “Laguna Mar” // Having bites and scratches everywhere on my body // Drinking a cold lager in the sunset // Watching Juno on the balcony at night //

Paria Bay The Three Pools Marianne River Almond Brook guesthouse

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